Showing posts with label 1981. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1981. Show all posts

Arbiter Magazine

I didn't know about 80's Arbiter Magazine and there's nothing online but Mark Carney enlightened me about it, there's always something to learn about the past!


1981 November/December Issue (Harrison Ford), 1982 January/February Issue (Nelson Piquet), pictures submitted by Mark Carney, thanks!


"Arbiter was a bi-monthly magazine so they had 6 issues per year instead of one each month like Men's Vogue. It was very tough to get in their editorial spreads because it published 1/2 less than the other magazines.

Arbiter Magazine went out of publication in 1985 I think. It was based in Milan and, at the time, was as prestigious as Men's Vogue, Linea Uomo and Men's Bazaar. They didn't book as many models so it was difficult to get editorial work with them. They did fantastic editorials and hired only top photographers. Marina Rossi (fashion editor for Arbiter) was fantastic to work with. She and Fabrizio Gianni had a great relationship." - Mark Carney

Mark Carney by Fabrizio Gianni

80's male model Mark Carney shares some of his modeling portfolio, this post is about his work with the great photographer Fabrizio Gianni.


Men's Vogue
"Un Look di tutto reposo"
Year: 1981
Model: Mark Carney
Ph: Fabrizio Gianni





Arbiter Magazine
Year: 1981, November/December Issue
Models: Mark Carney, Jiles Kirkland and two female models.
Ph: Fabrizio Gianni





Les Copains
Year:
Models: Mark Carney and ?
Ph: Fabrizio Gianni



On his own words:

"I had the pleasure of working with Fabrizio in 1981 on several bookings. I was a model with an agency called Fashion Model (Luigi Salvioli) in Milan where Fabrizio booked me. We did a shoot in Morocco (Marrakech and Ouarzazarte) for a week for Arbiter Magazine (Marina Rossi) and other shoots in Milan studios for Men's Vogue and a few other magazines. He had an assistant then named Pasqaule.

Fabrizio was the one who gave me the break to become a successful European model as he liked to be the first to work with promising unkowns.

Working with him was fantastic. He knew and visualized the picture he wanted before he shot it. Themes, props, locations, etc. were meticulously planned before the image was taken and his professionalism was unsurpassed. I remember one photo series in particular where we were in a Marrakesh square shooting a line of clothes with cobra snakes surrounding me. Fabrizio had a way about him that working in such a situation was invigorating because the shot would be worth it. He would take industry breaking photos and use a fictitious name for the photo credits because of his humility.

Socializing with him was equally rewarding. His detailing and sharing of his life experiences and knowledge was fascinating. He also had a pretty good tennis game. He is the type of person that whether your working with him or breaking bread with him, it is an experience you will never forget. He had a very positive impact on my life. Thanks Fabrizio!" - Mark Carney, 2010


Arbiter Magazine
Year: 1982, January/February Issue
Model: Mark Carney
Ph: Fabrizio Gianni



 "those glasses were Fabrizio's glasses.  He had me wear them one time and he liked them on me so much, he wanted me to wear them for some of the photos when were in Africa." - Mark Carney








All the scans provided by Mark Carney, thanks!

Scott Connell

1981 Rugby ad photographed by Kal

source: themanofashion facebook


1984, International Male catalog



2006, he looks almost the same! I just read here that he got married in the 80's with a model called Anna Jonsson, they met in a photoshoot and now live in L.A

Jason Savas for Macy's 1981

Brand: Macy's
Year: Fall/Winter 1981
Models: Jason Savas and a female model
Ph:

Back to 1981: Jiles Kirkland, Making a name in fashion

Jiles Kirkland, Making a name in fashion
Herald Tribune, Nov 22, 1981 by Marie McMurria

A former Bradenton resident is making a name for himself in the fashion and tv commercial fields.

He is Jiles Kirkland, who attended Manatee High when his father, the Rev. Jiles Kirkland ,was pastor of First Mehodist Church.The family moved to Jacksonville when Jiles Sr. was assigned to Riverside Park Methodist.

The son first worked for a large department store, did a bit of advertising and was signed by a modeling agency after he appeared in newspaper photos. After getting a start in the north Florida city Jiles decided to go to New York City on his own and has had enough success to make a good living.

Last year he had a bit part on the soap opera "Another World", has been in several TV commercials, including one for Pizza Hut, and appeared in a recent Cosmopolitan magazine feature.

After doing some fashion modeling in Paris, Jiles has been in Rome these past few weeks working with famed Italian designer Giorgio Armani, he was to have returned to New York Friday and plans to spend Thanksgiving in Jacksonville with his parents.Going up from Bradenton will be his brother and sister in law, Nelon and Lisa Kirkland.


Actually Jiles is a financial advisor with Wells Fargo Advisors.
B&W pics taken from ModelsComposites.com

 -------------------------------------------------------------------

GQ
"Aerobis, Balance and Agility"
Year: Spring/Summer 1984
Model: Jiles Kirkland
Ph: Frank Schramm


Paco Rabanne: what is remembered is up to you

A chronology of the famous Paco Rabanne ads of the 80's, these are the ones I've seen , maybe there's more.


Brand: Paco Rabanne
Year: 1980
Model:
Ph:



Hello?
Marc?
Yes?
It's me. Biffy. We met last week, at the Wexlers! You were looking down my dress.
I was admiring your brooch. The cameo of your grandmother.
In a pig's eye! You blushed when I caught you at it. How very un-European of you!
It is a trick I perform. It creates an air of boyish charm.
I'd like to see you.
I, too
I have a bottle of cheap Algerian wine, some soggy crab dip, and an apartment with a magnificent view of a brick wall. Would you like to come over?
For such an elegant invitation, I will shave elegantly, and comb my hair elegantly, and then I will take some Paco Rabanne, which is a most elegant cologne, and I will place it on several parts of my body, after which, my dear Buffy ..

---------------------

This one is also from 1980 - 1982 and the polemic one since many people thought it was the gay version of the campaign, supposely it could be a conversation between men.


Brand: Paco Rabanne
Year: 1980 -1982
Model:
Ph:



Ina.fr has the commercial that goes with this ad, the same room, the same model, the same everything and the conversation is men-female so it was just controversy.  btw, I don't  speak french, what do they say?




Hello?"
"You snore."
"And you steal all the covers. What time did you leave?"
"Six-thirty. You looked like a toppled Greek statue lying there. Only some tourist had swiped your fig leaf. I was tempted to wake you up."
"I miss you already."
"You're going to miss something else. Have you looked in the bathroom yet?"
"Why?"
"I took your bottle of Paco Rabanne cologne."
"What on earth are you going to do with it…give it to a secret lover you've got stashed away in San Francisco?"
"I'm going to take some and rub it on my body when I go to bed tonight. And then I'm going to remember every little thing about you…and last night."
"Do you know what your voice is doing to me?
"You aren't the only one with imagination. I've got to go; they're calling my flight. I'll be back Tuesday. Can I bring you anything?"
"My Paco Rabanne. And a fig leaf."


----------------------

Brand: Paco Rabanne
Year: 1983
Model:
Ph: Robert Farber




Hello?
How's the Great American Novel going?
So far it reads more like the turgid insights of a lonely Albanian date-plucker
Did I hear the word "lonely"?
There's a fog rolling in.
You're in Pawgansett, dear, it holds the world record for fog.
The "t" in my typewriter is sticking, I have seventeen cans of lentil soup. And my Paco Rabanne cologne, which I use to lure shy maidens out of the woods, is gone, all gone.
You're going to have to do better than that
All right, I'm lonely. I miss you. I miss your cute little broken nose. I miss the sight of you in bed in the morning, all pink and pearly and surly
And you want me to catch the train up.
Hurry! This thing they call love is about to burst the bounds of decency. And, darling..
Yes?
bring a bottle of Paco Rabanne, would you? the maidens are gettin restless.
Swine!


--------------------

Brand: Paco Rabanne
Year: 1984
Model: Thomas Bradley
Ph: Robert Farber



Hello?
I hope you sit on a lute!
Ah! the sweet song of the morning grouch!
You didn't say goodbye
I didn't want to wake you
Who could sleep when there's a hunk with no clothes on wandering around at five in the morning, humming
Vivaldi and knocking over furniture?
You have an ear of tin, It was Brunch. And I'm playing it this afternoon up in Boston for the Ladies of the Noble Order of Sweater-and-Pearls, What are you doing?
Lying here, thinking of you, You know, I can smell you Paco Rabanne, It's like you were still here.
I wish I were
I couldn't go back to sleep, remembering everything. I wanted yo hear your voice, It has the most interesting effect on me ..
Maybe I should run over and read you a bedtime story or something.
Or something.



-------------------------------------------

Brand: Ed Locke
Year: 1986
Model: Thomas Bradley
Ph: Joel Baldwin



Hello?
Is this the man with the secret tattoo?
Now that you know about it, it's not a secret anymore, is it? 
Your tattoo is safe with me. Were you able to get a taxi ?
I walked home. 
And how was Paris while all the sensible folk were still in bed?
It was grey and drizzling and bloody marvelous. I kept making up poems with your name in them. Also a love song that, for rhyming reasons, ended up being all about your right elbow. I don't think my feet touched the ground once all the way home
I meant to tell you. I love the way you smell. Most men's colognes make them smell like they take themselves too seriously.
I thank you. My Paco Rabanne cologne thanks you. My mother thanks you.
Your mother would never approve of what you and your Paco Rabanne do to me so let's leave her out of this. Am I going to see your tattoo again tonight?
That's up to you, Isn't it?

------------------------------


Brand: Paco Rabanne
Year: 1988
Model:
Ph: Joel Baldwin




Hello?
How would you like to come and make a dishonest woman of me?
Where are you?
If you look out the window ...
Porthole.
... Porthole, you'll see a pink stucco hotel overlooking the bay. My plane just got in. I'm in Room 16. First bed on the right
You told me you hated flying.
I didn't know I'd miss you this much.
I never thought I'd hear you say that
I said to myself, " What am I doing up here while he's down there in the islands? He's probably wearing that Paco Rabanne cologne of his — and damned little else - and flashing that smile at all those able-bodied and weak-minded women he's meeting
Listen, you've caught me at a bad time, I've got a cabin full of dusky women in skimpy sarongs plying me with papaya and passion fruit. They've been teaching me the secret island ways of love, as handed down from generation to generation. Only four more lessons and I ...
Oh, shut up! Room 16 and step on it, sailor!

 -----------------------

The Erotic History of Advertising
Aromatic Aphrodisiacs: Fragrance


Not convinced about the power of product placement? Paco Rabanne had no hesitations. The company discovered a way to inventively insert its own product-  Paco Rabanne cologne - into a series of sexually laden tête-à-têtes.

The dialogue belonged to a two-page spread revealing the inside of an artist's flat. Against the far wall a man sits up in bed, sheets to his hips, talking on the phone; an empty bottle of wine sits near the foot of his bed. The dialogue flows down the page on the other side of the ad.

Additional vignettes include a lonely writer in Pawgansett, a musician with a towel wrapped around his waist promising the caller another bedtime story, and a man on his boat making arrangements for a rendezvous. All flirted with their lovers over the telephone, and all plots revolved around a missing (or empty) bottle of Paco Rabanne.


The ads created a mini-sensation when they first appeared in the early-1980s. Readers had fun guessing what the other person looked like. Some even speculated about the caller's gender-notice that the text is ambiguous, and there is that reference about "a secret lover…stashed away in San Francisco."

An academic study even investigated another Paco Rabanne ad to see how readers interpreted the motive of a female caller-was she a slut, in control, out of control, rich?


The Paco Rabanne campaign didn't contain nudity (much anyway), and it didn't come right out and say, "This is what attracts her to you…or you to him." But, like most fragrance advertising, the campaign did create a sensual mood, and moods are essential in fragrance advertising. "A fragrance doesn't do anything. It doesn't stop wetness. It doesn't unclog your drain. To create a fantasy for the consumer is what fragrance is all about.

 --------

In the 90's the campaign was starred by Thomas Bradley, it was different but the slogan remained,  "what is remembered is up to you"

Michael 81

L'Officiel Hommes
"Le Club des Creaturs en Irlande"
Year: September 1981
Model: Michael King and ?
Ph: Alain Larue
Fashion: Marcel Lessance, Daniel Hechter, Cacharel, Christian Aujard, Mic Mac, Anthony Yong




Michael 81

L'Officiel Hommes
"Killarney, Le Jeune Homme en Vert"
Year: September 1981
Model: Michael King and ?
Ph: Alain Larue
Fashion: Christian Dior, Lanvin, Claude Montana, Scapa of Scotland, Lucien Fonciel, Daniel Hechter, Cerruti 1881




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